What is tweed? A guide to tweed fabric

“What is tweed, exactly?” It’s a question we get asked time and time again. Whether “tweed” makes you picture countryside jackets, sophisticated blazers, or modern streetwear, all garments are made from the same material we love best — tweed. To help you get to know this fabric a little better, here’s an overview of what tweed material is, what it’s made of, how many types there are, what colors it comes in, and what the wearability is like. Let’s get started. 

What is tweed?

Tweed is a thick and tightly woven wool fabric known for its warmth, durability, and water resistance. It comes in various colors and patterns, and can be woven into a range of different thicknesses or “weights.” Thanks to this versatility, it can be used to make a nice cap, winter-proof outwear, a three-piece suit, or even a shirt. 

Tweed fabric was originally invented in Scotland in the 18th century as a thick, hardy cloth for outerwear. Scottish workers wore it during the cold winters because it could withstand harsh temperatures, wind, and rain — and last for several years.

In the 19th century, tweedmakers began mixing weight, colors, and patterns to create an almost infinite number of unique tweeds. Noble families used this to their advantage, creating their own “estate tweeds” which would help identify members of the family and their staff.

As production techniques advanced, tweed became available to more and more people, slowly increasing its popularity. Now, it’s seen as a quintessential British fabric that is loved and worn all over the world, with brands like Harris Tweed enjoying worldwide fame.  

What is tweed made of?

Tweed is typically made from natural sheep’s wool, which means no two garments look exactly the same. Here’s how it’s made:

• The wool is harvested from a sheep and then goes through a very intense cleaning process. 
• Once clean, the wool is ready to be dyed — first white with bleach and then with color. Greens, blues, reds, and browns are the most popular but lots of other colors are used too.
• After the wool has been dyed, different colors can be blended in an industrial mixer to make new shades. 
• Next, everything needs to be untangled in a process known as “teasing and carding.” This works a little like brushing your hair but is with huge mechanical toothed rollers in factories. 
• Now it's finally ready to be spun into threads, wrapped onto bobbins, and shipped off to be woven into the classic tweed patterns. 

Types of tweed

Different types of tweed are defined by their patterns. Some can be merged together while others have specific uses or come from specific areas. 

• Checked: A standard checkerboard pattern, usually quite fine and often using more than two colors.
• Overcheck: This pattern is usually laid over the top of an existing pattern, like checked, and outlines large squares in a contrasting color. 
• Herringbone: Described as a zigzag or triangular pattern, herringbone features lines of two contrasting colors going diagonally upwards and then diagonally downwards repeatedly. 
• Striped: Exactly as it sounds—stripes can be horizontal or vertical, with differing thicknesses, equal thicknesses, two colors, more than two colors, and much more. 
• Estate: Unique tweed patterns which are owned by or originate from specific estates and noble families in Scotland. 
• Twill: Often a block color, the fibers in this tweed run in a simple diagonal pattern. It’s one of the most common and popular types of tweed. 
• Houndstooth and dogtooth: Similar to checked tweed, but instead of a square shape, each check has a spiky shape not unlike a dog’s teeth. 
• Barleycorn: The stitches in this weave resemble barley grains in shape and are often a mix of different colors. 

What color is tweed?

Tweed can be any color. The wool is first bleached white but can then be dyed any color during production. However, certain colors are more commonly used in tweed. 

Earthy and natural colors like blue, green, red, and brown are commonly used—sometimes all four colors will appear in one garment. Other pieces come in block colors or different shades of the same color. 

Is tweed warm?

Tweed is known for being the perfect winter fabric because it can be woven into very thick cloth. The wool it’s made from is also naturally water-repellent. 

For stylish suits and lighter garments, lightweight tweed fabrics are often used to keep the clothing breathable and comfortable.

Where can I buy tweed?

If you’re ready to join the tweed club, check out our collection of tweed suits, jackets, trousers, waistcoats, and hats at Tweedmaker. We make our suits to order in the exact size you need for comfort and style.